Rockford

Rockford can only be described as an icon, no matter how overused that word may be. It has a devoted band of customers who buy most of the wine through the cellar door or mail order (Robert O’Callaghan’s entrancing annual newsletter is like no other). Some wine is sold through restaurants and there are 2 retailers in Sydney and one each in Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth. Whether they will have the Basket Press Shiraz available is another matter; it is as scarce as Henschke Hill of Grace (but less expensive). -JAMES HALLIDAY