Southern stars: 12 wines that highlight the dynamism of Chile's wine scene

Thrust into the world of international wine judging at the eleventh hour as a stand-in, my first deep dive into Chilean wine was a flurry of merlot and a whitewash of cabernet. Even back then, those Santiago judging flights offered a glimpse into the dynamism of today’s Chilean wine scene, with composed carménères and striking sauvignons already making a memorable showing at the 2008 Wines of Chile Awards.

Although the Chilean wine scene is very different today, the fundamentals remain the same: the epic nearly-5000-kilometre-long country has a seemingly endless coastline, sunshine hours are plentiful, exposure to the Pacific Ocean moderates temperatures, and the Andes effortlessly bring altitude to the table. 

Chile's best-known wine regions

The difference now is what Chile is doing with these naturally occurring gifts. The coastline is being utilised to very good effect, with planting just a few kilometres from the ocean generating a whole raft of new wine regions. Pick up a Chilean wine map of say, 20 years ago, and many of these now-significant regions wouldn’t even feature. The arrival of Casablanca kicked things off in the ’80s, Leyda followed in the ’90s and then along came the likes of Limarí, Elquí and Aconcagua. While harnessing freshness from the coastline has been a key driver in improving Chile’s overall success, its other ace card – proximity to the Andes – is just as crucial, and the increase in high-altitude vineyards (some as high as 2000m) are testament to its importance.

The Elquí Valley is nestled in the Andes.

Chile's key grape varieties and wine styles

From Elquí in the north to Bío-Bío in the south (roughly 1000km apart), the sheer length of the country means it can happily accommodate all sorts of grape varieties and styles: skin-contact pinot gris, still blends of chardonnay and pinot noir, vermentino, sauvignon gris, semillon, cinsault, carignan, malbec – Chile’s got the lot, and it’s doing well with it too, plus they’ve made huge strides with their own native red, país. Once written off as being nothing but a dilute and acidic liability, today it’s a much happier beast and, in a bit of a pinot noir way, it rewards those who treat it well and plant it in the right spot, producing a juicy and vibrant wine that in the best cases can even be creamy. Who’d have thought? Even so, Chile’s stalwart varieties still have their roots firmly in the ground, but they have upped their game no end. From classy chardonnay to finely tuned cabernet, the sophistication level is hugely different to what it was 15 years ago. 

Winemaking in Chile

Chile’s talented, achingly modest winemakers are the ones making all this happen, of course, and in my lucky experience as someone who’s returned to Chile several times since that first judging year, it’s clear this army of aptitude is another constant feature of the country. Putting their topographical serendipity to good use, it all makes for a pretty dynamic wine industry.

Drip irrigation has been a game changer here too – promoting vine planting on cooler and less-fertile south-facing slopes and therefore contributing to a greater diversity of vineyard soils – although reds still rule, with more than three-quarters of Chile’s vineyard area dedicated to red wine production. The whites, though, arguably offer more dynamism and experimentation, so we may even see a shift in those planting ratios as Chile continues its progressive momentum, helped all the while by viticultural consultants such as Pedro Parra whose conscientious research combined with serious advancement in technology has brought about much better-quality planting overall.

Carménère is Chile's signature variety.

How Chilean wines are viewed globally

It all sounds too good to be true, right? Well, here’s the rub. 

Looking at wine shelves and websites across the world, Chile is still perversely seen through an old wine lens. The bottles on offer may be less indifferent than they once were, but the meh merlot and cumbersome cabernet that some people bizarrely choose to sell aren’t even close to representing what Chilean wine is truly about these days. Why is Chile being treated this way? Is it the fault of the exchange rate, with Chinese demand for Chilean copper strengthening the peso, making Chile’s ability to offer ‘good value’ (polite code for cheap) increasingly difficult? If so, you see where this is going.

The task for we wine drinkers is clear. Support Chile’s better, more interesting and valuable wines. Don’t waste time looking for ‘good value’, as not only is it getting harder and harder to find, but it also won’t end well – neither for you nor the good folk of Chile.

12 Chilean wines to try

2023 Casa Marin Cipreses Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Chile
13.5% alc. $38, drink by 2030
Maria Luz Marin is the visionary doyenne of Chilean wine, with good reason. She fought hard for permission to plant in coastal La Abarca and now her wines are the stuff of legend. The young-ish vines (15 years) here give a real vibrancy and urgency to the limey salty tang. A cool, multi-layered customer.

2020 Baettig Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay, Chile
13% alc. $225, drink by 2032
If one bottle embodies the sheer sophistication of Chile these days, this is it, from Swiss-Chilean Baettig who made his name as chief winemaker at Errázuriz. Shimmering gold with a deep succulence of roasted peaches, stem ginger and almonds fleshing out the acid backbone while the new oak tastes more like seasoning than flavour.

2022 Tabalí Talinay Chardonnay, Chile
12% alc. $80, drink by 2028
With limestone vineyards only 12km from the ocean, it’s no wonder this chardonnay shows all the hallmarks of precise tangy fruit with a breezy, salty thrill. Resting in top French oak for 10 months has sealed the deal of this complex, serious chardonnay with significant bite.

2022 Villard Expresion Chardonnay, Chile
13.5% alc. $35, drink by 2027
Casablanca has long been a haven of ice-cube-cool white wines and while this fits that mould a dream, it displays that all-important balance of juicy peach and papaya with buttery brioche, making this a pretty complex affair, so much so it would lend itself well to decanting before serving. 

2020 Cousiño Macul Lota, Chile
14% alc. $120, drink by 2030
Family-owned since 1856, tradition really does meet innovation at Cousiño Macul. A cabernet and merlot blend that’s worth holding on to, to really allow the tobacco earthy vibe to melt into the figs and blackcurrant, although to be fair, the tannins are already beautifully integrated.  

2021 Pedro Parra Monk Cinsault, Chile
14% alc. $85, drink by 2026
Legendary soil and vineyard mapping expert Parra is a natural candidate to release some seriously tasty wine, and this is probably the jewel in his winemaking crown. From single-vineyard Itata fruit, it’s packed with fresh and crunchy black fruit as well as finely grained tannins. Moreish.

2021 A Los Viñateros Bravos, Chile
11.5% alc. $30, drink by 2027
An ode ‘to the brave vintners’, this tells you a thing or two about Leonardo Erzado and his principles. A cool maritime wine which has also been made at some altitude has ensured a long growing season for this país and carignan blend, delivering cassis purity as a broad base with smoky and salty layers providing the savoury class.

2023 Maycas del Limarí Syrah, Chile
13.5% alc. $15, drink by 2027
Maycas is pretty much a boutique project that’s purely focused on organic fruit from this esteemed northerly location. Syrah (note: not shiraz) here is all about perfume and high tones. The violets, the cassis, and a touch of wood shavings with endless layers of fruit versus savoury give it masses of appeal. 

2021 Montes Outer Limits Cinsault, Chile
14% alc. $80, drink by 2027
Outer Limits was regarded as fairly radical range when it first broke onto the scene, and although much has changed since then, it remains a well-executed set of wines. The cinsault juice factor here is strong, with vibrant, squishy fruit almost defying the barrel time – although it was seasoned oak. 

2022 Emiliana Organic Malbec, Chile
13.5% alc. $20, drink by 2027
Emiliana is one of Chile’s pioneers in organic and biodynamic winemaking and although this malbec may come from the less-fashionable Rapel Valley, its biodynamic origins produce an effortless red that’s bursting with appealing black fruit and a twist of pepper wrapped in easy-going tannins.  

2020 Tinto de Rulo País, Chile 
11.5% alc. $38, drink by 2027
This three-friend passion project blends país with malbec from the two southern regions du jour, Itata and Bío-Bío Valley. The organic fruit is fermented in a combination of huge lagares of Rauli (Chilean) wood and old amphoraes, giving this a pretty distinctive strawberry and balsamic character with an uplifting fresh finish.

2023 Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir, Chile
15% alc. $12, drink by 2026
Never underestimate Cono Sur; it’s given Chile-on-the-high-street some serious kudos. Pinot noir is one of their specialties and this, even with the significant alcohol, still embodies the ripe plump strawberries and raspberries to give it easy-drinking creds.

This article first appeared in issue #78 of Halliday magazine. Become a member to receive four issues delivered to your door per year, plus digital access to over 180,000 tasting notes, and other member benefits.

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