The 2026 Dark Horse Winery: bakkheia

2026 Dark Horse Winery

bakkheia – Geographe, Western Australia

bakkheia has been named the 2026 Halliday Dark Horse Winery.

Previously, the Dark Horse Winery award recognised Australian wineries that had achieved a 5-star rating for the first time. But now, the category exists to champion the hidden gems and underdogs – those who fly under the radar but deserve the spotlight. And we can think of no winery more deserving of this accolade than bakkheia. 

A unique project focusing on a pint-sized site and a release of around 1200 dozens a year in total. The project is underpinned by the Mediterranean grape varieties of grenache, mourvèdre, tempranillo, graciano, some shiraz and also a splash of chardonnay from ‘across the road’.

The wines deliver great varietal character (and intrigue in blends) with a finesse and poise that gives pause. Savouriness is embedded in the wines, so too restraint. Of course, the bingo card reads organic, minimal intervention, lighter shades of red, elegance, fine tannin, minerality; that should tick a lot of boxes.

This has to be one of the most exciting boutique projects in the country right now – each wine an adventure and generally just damn outstanding. – Mike Bennie

This unique project in Western Australia’s Geographe is reimagining how a winery can be run. The mind behind this endeavour is Michael Edwards, a former navy clearance diver who learned how to grow vines and make wine through trial and error. He was never tied to the traditional ways of running a winery but drawn to this work because he enjoyed making and drinking good wine. And from this purity – making wine for the love of it – comes bakkheia. 

“We're never going to be millionaires from it. It was never designed to make us millionaires. I know that's a bit bizarre,” Michael says. “As long as we were in the black, money wasn't the focus. The importance was always the great enjoyment we had, the great pleasure we found in living on the land and making something we’re proud of.”

Uniquely, to show his appreciation for the supporters who have been with him from the beginning, Michael lets members from his 500-strong list decide the price of every wine themselves. Twice a year, he selects 10–12 people from the list to taste the upcoming wines.  The Cardinals, as he calls them, taste the wines together, and then decide what each wine should cost alone. 

“Ultimately, I see myself as the personal winemaker for 500 Australians,” Michael says.   

He also sees no need to expand his member list and make more wine. His current production, a little over 1200 cases a year, is sustainable for him and his small team. He enjoys making this much wine and sees no reason to change, so, if you are lucky enough to get your hands on one of these bottles, treasure it and enjoy the fact that it is all being made and sold in a truly wholesome and unique way. 

We are delighted to shed light on what bakkheia is doing right now. It is a producer entirely deserving of more attention.

Previous Dark Horse Winery recipients include Singlefile Wines (2014), Haselgrove Wines (2015), Terindah Estate (2016), Arlewood Estate (2017), Boat O’Craigo (2018), Principia (2019), Dal Zotto Wines (2020), Yarran Wines (2021), Renzaglia Wines (2022), L.A.S. Vino (2023), Anderson & Marsh (2024) and ChaLou Wines (2025).

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The 2026 Halliday Wine Companion is available now. Secure your copy of Australia's most comprehensive wine guide at all good bookstores.

This is an edited extract from the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion, with reviews by Dave Brookes, Jane Faulkner, Jeni Port, Katrina Butler, Marcus Ellis, Mike Bennie, Philip Rich, Shanteh Wale and Toni Paterson MW. Cover art by James Coe.