Most folks know the brands which produce some of Australia's top wines, but the winemakers responsible for creating these standout drops too often go overlooked. This is a real shame, for they are the ones toiling away in the background, taking fine fruit (painstakingly cared for by the viticulturists) and turning them into masterpieces in a bottle.
These winemakers deserve some time in the limelight, which is why we have decided to give extra attention to Belinda Hughes from Rieslingfreak, Christian James from Mitchelton Wines and Marco Cirillo from Cirillo Estate. Find out a little more about why they love their work, how they got into the industry and how they approach the art of making wine.
Belinda Hughes from Rieslingfreak
Academically, Belinda Hughes (aka ‘The Freakette’) has impressive stats. She attained First Class Honours in Oenology at The University of Adelaide back in 2004 before undertaking extensive academic wine research during post-honours stints at both CSIRO and AWRI. When it comes to the science behind winemaking, Belinda truly knows her stuff.
In the vineyards, she started out under the tutelage of Nepenthe Wines’ Peter Leske – becoming instantly smitten with the aromatic white styles they produced. Her love for riesling, most specifically, was later developed during her time at Grant Burge Wines where she worked as head white winemaker for many years.
The demanding nature of riesling – which commands intense attention to detail and fastidious management – appealed to her nature, and the small parcels of Eden Valley riesling produced by Grant Burge Wines always received special attention in the winery.
Belinda then met John Hughes (owner of Rieslingfreak) at the International Riesling Challenge in Canberra in 2013 where a friendly rivalry began. They spent many years fighting over who makes the best riesling before eventually falling in love and marrying – all the while Belinda continued to work at Grant Burge Wines.
It wasn’t until January 2021 when Belinda finally officially joined the team at Rieslingfreak – after years of helping behind the scenes.
In the years since, Belinda and John have worked side by side to develop and expand the Rieslingfreak offering in a range of new and exciting directions, all while remaining true to the ethos of unwavering integrity and exceptional quality of the Rieslingfreak name. She has been a powerful force for the brand, and has helped influence the trajectory of Australian riesling.
Shop Belinda's Rieslingfreak wines here
Christian James from Mitchelton Wines
Like many winemakers, Christian James’ journey into the wine industry did not begin within the confines of a vineyard or winery.
After dedicating eight years to the Insolvency Department within the Australian Public Service, Christian determined that his profound passion for wine was too compelling to overlook. In 2014, Christian enrolled at Charles Sturt University and relocated from Brisbane to Victoria to embark on his career in the wine industry.
As fate would have it, he began his practical experience at Mitchelton in 2015, remaining there until 2017 before exploring other regions. During this period, he completed his Bachelor of Wine Science while working full-time, accruing nine years of experience across various regions in Victoria. His career included working with Llew Knight at Granite Hills, where he specialised in riesling and cool climate reds, and gaining invaluable training in viticultural practices and winemaking methodologies with the Quealy and McCall families on the Mornington Peninsula.
“I truly believe that great wines are made in the vineyard and it is our role to honour the hard work done out there and use the tools we have, to highlight the best attributes of the fruit from the season,” shares Christian.
His enthusiasm for champagne and sparkling wines, complemented by his appreciation for vibrant, medium-bodied Rhône blends, exceptional chardonnay, and refined shiraz, aligns well with Mitchelton's current and future portfolio.
He’s enthusiastic about his new chapter at Mitchelton, committed to the importance of viticulture and creating some of the finest wines the region has to offer. This endeavour will be guided by the esteemed mentorship of two renowned winemakers – Doug Neal and Mike Mudge.
The future is bright at Mitchelton and Christian looks forward to leading the talented viticultural and winemaking teams towards the creation of exceptional and innovative wines, with a strong emphasis on maintaining superior quality and longevity.
Shop Christian's Mitchelton wines here
Image by Michael Errey.
Marco Cirillo from Cirillo Estate
Born in 1977 in Tanunda to parents that immigrated from Calabria Italy, Marco Cirillo is a first generation Australian. He grew up in the Barossa Valley helping his dad Vincent look after their semillon, grenache and shiraz vineyards, which were planted all the way back in 1848.
Even though he grew up around the vines, Marco originally went into the automotive industry – his first passion being cars. However, spending days working with cars (not his own) ended up being somewhat disengaging, so ended up leaving his apprenticeship. During this time, Marco dropped in to see a mate who was working at Chateau Tanunda. He quickly started helping out and subsequently was offered a cellar hand role by owner John Gieber.
He realised he actually loved the winemaking process while working here, and drew on his knowledge from his families long line of viticultural knowledge. He studied winemaking at Charles Sturt University, but quickly figured out practical experience was more his style. This lead to starting Cirillo Estate Wines in 2002.
He decided to buy grapes (just grenache at this point) to make what is now known as the 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache. Fast forward, Marco has worked vintages across Australia and the south of France. He got his hands dirty and learned more in the cellar than in the classroom.
When it comes to his winemaking approach, Marco believes in minimal interference – letting the vineyard and the fruit do the talking. Sustainability is vital, with he and his team adopting organic principles and long-term environmental care in every step. The goal is to ensure these historic vines continue to thrive for generations to come. This is not just about producing wine. It is about carrying forward a family legacy and respecting the land that makes it all possible. Every stage of the process reflects years of knowledge, tradition, and quiet perseverance.
His house style is primary fruit, savoury notes, crunchy acidity and longevity wines with finesse. He is very proud to keep the family’s old vines alive and produce wines that show off what the Barossa does best.