Beyond the basics: two distillers share expert tips on identifying exceptional Australian liqueur

What is liqueur?

If, when you hear the word 'liqueur', your mind goes to sugary syrup or Baileys Irish Cream, then you're not alone. But we're here to dispel your preconceived notions of what liqueur is all about, and teach you how to find the best Australian liqueur on the market – with a little help from the experts.

Liqueur is a broad category that encompasses any spirit that has had flavouring and sugar added post-distillation. This is different to spirits such as vodka, gin and whisky that get 100 per cent of their flavour and character from the distillation and maturation processes. 

But, although liqueurs must, by definition, have a significant amount of sugar or other sweetener added, they're not just "sugary afterthoughts", as Nathan Ponder of Millsheds Distillery says. When done right, they can be craft products that are extremely versatile – just as good on their own as they are in cocktails or even desserts.

Below, we speak to Nathan Ponder, owner and head distiller at Millsheds, and Hugh Leech, distiller at Marionette, about what separates good liqueur from great liqueur and what the future is for the spirit in Australia.

Marionette

Distiller Hugh Leech says: We believe liqueurs that create a complete picture of the fruit, that are truly representative of their region, are what separate exceptional products from the essence-based, two-dimensional products that are the norm. We strive for authentic taste, representing each fruit through complex building blocks – often using wine-based products like brandy, riesling, and botrytis semillon in our liqueurs, and sometimes finishing with barrel ageing. This approach gives Marionette liqueurs richer mouthfeel, balanced acidity, delicate floral notes and all the complexities that each piece of fruit has to offer.

H. What makes Australian liqueur so unique, and what is the future for liqueur in Australia?
HL. Australia's sheer size gives us the unique opportunity to access and source incredible produce – it was the impetus for starting Marionette in the first place. Like Australian winemakers who are less beholden to traditional European practices and expectations, we can approach liqueur making from a modern perspective. We use less sugar than traditional European products, and we're fortunate to work with an exciting generation of farmers who bring a sustainable and best-practice approach to agriculture.

Many people claim "I don't drink liqueurs" while unknowingly enjoying them in cocktails at bars and restaurants. We want to demystify liqueurs, showing that they're simple, versatile building blocks for mixed drinks. Rather than defaulting to a G&T with high-proof gin and sugary tonic, we encourage people to explore alternatives like an apricot spritz with sparkling wine, or a bitter curaçao highball with soda. Brands like ours spend countless hours carefully processing fruit and botanicals, and months extracting flavour, so that consumers both in venues and at home can enjoy all the incredible produce that Australia has to offer.

Liqueur to try: Marionette Apricot Brandy Liqueur

Products labelled “apricot brandy” are, in fact, mostly liqueurs, and Marionette’s version is no exception. But while most commercial versions are made on a base of cheap neutral grain spirit, this product is made from genuine South Australian grape brandy, steeped with Australian apricots, re-distilled and then barrel aged. This is apricot liqueur the hard way. Apricot liqueur is a fundamental cocktail ingredient utilised in the recipe of countless mixed drinks. These days, discerning Australian bartenders reach for Marionette’s version, with less sugar and more natural flavour than most imported options. The deeply perfumed aroma of apricots greets the nose here, velvety and inviting, without a hint of artificial flavour or aggressive sweetness. Excellent acidity on the palate shows restraint with sugar. Miles above the commercial stuff with a clean, crisp finish that’s anything but cloying. Why make a cocktail? I’d be happy swigging this right from the bottle. – Fred Siggins, 97 points, Halliday Wine Companion.

H. How was this liqueur made and what makes it so special? 
HL. We use two varieties of apricot – one sweet and one sour – sourced directly from a farmer in Australia’s home of stone fruit, Cobram in the Goulburn Valley. Working closely with farmers gives us access to Australia's finest fruit within days or even hours of harvest, importantly before any waxing or processing occurs. As the name implies, we also use a significant amount of high-quality Australian brandy, which gives our liqueur a lovely rich toasty backbone and can add complexity to a cocktail. Like all our products, this liqueur contains less sugar than international competitors, allowing the true fruit flavour to shine through.

RRP: $60 | marionette.com.au | Shop this liqueur

Millsheds

Owner and head distiller Nathan Ponder says: At Millsheds, we reckon the difference between exceptional liqueur and merely good liqueur comes down to three things: quality local ingredients, balance and a bit of creative magic. Fresh, high-quality ingredients are a must and we get to use amazing local produce fresh from the Southern Highlands. We get to play a bit of mad scientist (or Willy Wonka), experimenting with funky combinations, wild ideas and small-batching in 15–20L lots until everything just clicks. Exceptional liqueurs make people go "oh, wow" when they taste them – they’re not too sweet, never artificial and always well balanced. Most of ours are finished with local spring water and local honey, which gives this beautiful, soft, clean finish.

H. What makes Australian liqueur so unique, and what is the future for liqueur in Australia?
NP. Australia gives us this wild mix of flavours to play with, stuff you don’t see anywhere else but that sometimes mixes amazingly with traditional styles like coffee and wattleseed, native botanicals, bright citrus, bold berries, plus some of the best growers in the world. We also have a new, fresh cohort of distillers who are all looking to explore and experiment, which you see in our award-winning Aussie gins. We’ve also got a bit of a rebellious streak; no one’s afraid to try something new. That combo of quality produce and creative spirit is what makes Aussie liqueurs really stand out.

We’d love to see liqueurs get the recognition they deserve. They’re not just sugary afterthoughts; they can be incredibly versatile, whether in cocktails, desserts or simply over ice. We hope more people start to see them as a craft product, made with the same care and creativity as gin or whisky. The future we’re excited about includes more seasonal, small-batch liqueurs that celebrate local produce and regional flavour. We want to see more consumers experimenting more in cocktails and their drink choices, more collaboration with local growers and hospitality, and a stronger focus on sustainability and transparency around artificial flavours/colours/sweeteners. It’s time for liqueurs to step out of the shadows and into the spotlight.

Liqueur to try: Millsheds Elderflower Liqueur

Our Elderflower Liqueur is a fragrant, floral spirit with notes of pear, lychee and citrus. Produced using hand-picked fresh local elderflowers, local citrus, our award-winning vodka base and sweetened with local honey. Lightly sweet and refreshing, it adds botanical elegance to cocktails, pairing beautifully with gin, champagne or white spirits.

H. How was this liqueur made and what makes it so special? 
NP. Our Elderflower Liqueur is one we’re really proud of. It’s light, floral and just super easy to enjoy. We hand pick elderflowers locally in Sutton Forest and Exeter (we have to get them when they are in bloom and fresh) and then infuse them into our smooth grape-based spirit. Then we add a bit of local citrus for zing and balance, some Highlands honey and sugar for a soft sweetness, and finish it off with fresh spring water. Nothing fancy, just really good, fresh ingredients done right.

Flavour-wise, it’s got this lovely mix of pear, lychee, citrus and floral notes, kind of like the Highlands in spring in a bottle. It’s also super versatile. Great in a spritz or a cocktail, with gin or vodka, topped up with bubbles or just over ice. We even have customers telling us they poured it over ice cream, it’s that good. Easygoing, refreshing and always a crowd-pleaser.

RRP: $60 | millsheds.com.au | Shop this liqueur

Top image credit: Marionette